Idaho Dad Walking – Day 3

Day 3 of my walk across England was the day the scenery took away my aches and pains, as well as my breath.

The 12 miles between Walwick and Winshields featured some of the most rugged terrain we covered during our week on the Hadrian’s Wall Path.

Looking at pictures ahead of time, I thought it would be a tough day of strenuous hiking.

But as I walked with the wall at my side, frequently letting my hand brush along those 2000-year-old stones, something funny happened.

I couldn’t feel my legs.

No, they weren’t going numb. That would come at the end of the walk.

Apparently, my brain found enough inspiration in the view, and the history, and the beautiful blue sky, to feed my muscles with all the endorphins they would need to turn that day’s long walk into something of a leisurely stroll.

But it wasn’t easy.

For one thing, I was still carrying a 30-pound backpack. And I was still somewhat sleep deprived.

Also, I started the day alone at the back. Far enough back, in fact, that I took a wrong turn near the Roman fort of Brocolitia and found myself way off the path, walking through a muddy pasture that threatened to suck the boots right off my feet. The cows and sheep also looked slightly sinister, as if they had set a trap for me by switching the path signs.

I climbed over a farmer’s wall and headed for higher ground, where I could see, off in the distance, the familiar sight of multi-colored backpacks bobbing up and down along the trail.

After that brief, early morning mis-step, the rest of the day was a joy.

I quickly caught up with my regular pack of slow walkers. Arjan, Sherry, Steve, Ellie, and Jo were my companions for the rest of the day.

The path began to feel more remote as we left the farms and roads behind us and started climbing the first of many steep crags. With names like Sewingshields, Housesteads, and Hotbanks, the summits of these crags afforded us sweeping views of Hadrian’s Wall as it snaked across the landscape.

It’s here that you begin to admire the effort that went into constructing the wall from 122 to 128 AD. You think about the Roman legions who occupied the mile castles and turrets to control trade and defend against attack from the north.

I couldn’t have asked for a more perfect day of walking. This was easily the day I took the most photographs. If you ever decide to visit Hadrian’s Wall, or walk part of the path, this is the area you’ll want to come to.

Three key sites along this section of path were Crag Lough, Housesteads Fort, and Sycamore Gap. I didn’t have time to pay admission and roam the museum at Housesteads, but the gift shop was a welcome respite for some ice cream and beverages.

I also did something kind of silly at Housesteads. This was the first time I found any souvenirs of the wall, so while I was loading up on snacks I was also loading up on books, t-shirts, tea towels, and figurines for the kids.

When the clerk bagged up those items and handed them back to me, she could clearly see the confusion on my face.

“What’s wrong?” she asked.

I just stammered, “I have no idea how I’m going to carry all of that.”

In other words, my eyes were bigger than my backpack.

After about ten minutes of rearranging and squishing, I managed to squeeze it all into my already overloaded pack.

From then on, I only bought postcards.

The highlight of the day was walking along the high cliff above Crag Lough and then making the steep descent to Sycamore Gap. The lone tree that grows along that section of wall is also known as The Robin Hood Tree, because Kevin Costner filmed a pivotal scene of his 1991 movie there. It’s probably the most photographed tree in Great Britain.

Just beyond Sycamore Gap is one of the better preserved mile castles, known as Castle Nick.

The path continued to follow a severe up and down pattern until we reached Winshields Crag, the highest point along Hadrian’s Wall at 1130 feet. From there, we made a gentle descent toward our stop for the night, the Winshields Farm Camp, where our group joined up with another, smaller, group that was walking for the same charity, only traveling in the opposite direction.

We all met for dinner at the Twice Brewed Inn, a pub just down the road that offered up the most delicious lentil pie I’ve ever had. Okay, so maybe it was the only lentil pie I’ve ever had, but it sure was good. Accompanied by my usual post-walk Crabbie’s, and followed by a lovely Sticky Toffee for dessert.

Have I mentioned how impressed I was with the food on this walk? I’m still not sure if the British pub food was outstandingly good, or I was just so hungry at the end of each day that a bowl full of burnt porridge would’ve drawn rave reviews from me.

Accommodations for the night, at the Winshields Farm Camp, were divided between a bunkbarn and a field full of tents. Somehow, most of the loudest snorers were relegated to the bunkbarn. I lay awake long into the night listening to them begin their chorus one by one. Martin even tells me I joined in for a show-stopping solo in the early hours of daybreak.

All in all, a very memorable day of walking. When I return to Hadrian’s Wall with my family in a few years, this is the day I will re-live with them.

Coming Soon: Day 4 – Castles, buses, and a mysterious companion!

Tagged as: England, Hadrian's Wall, Robin Hood, Sycamore Gap, trail, UK